Coif

After two plus years of work, I have finished my Coif.

I had seen these patterns on Reconstructing History's web site.  I was not sure what they actually were, but I was intrigued.  I had been looking at Janet Arnold's new book of Accessories, and had seen this coif that was monochromatic.  I liked it.  I was heavily into Blackwork, and this was curvilinear blackwork in red, or so I thought.  Then I was shopping at Birka, and there at the RH booth were the patterns.  So I got to look at them.  I said, hey I can do this.  No problem.  So I bought three different ones, and - innocent me - figured I could knock these off in no time.  Two years later, what I have learned.
Finding a picture of the actual Coif at the Victoria and Albert Museum web site was a bonus.  The V&A site lets you download very high definition pictures.  These I can then crop or cut and past to a Word page, blow it up, and see the details.  With this in hand I was able to figure out the exact stitches used.  I used this picture also to guide me as to how to shade them with the speckling stitch.  This stitch I had to teach myself the best way to do it.  At first I tried to do it from the front as just very small running stitch, but the best way ended up putting it into a hoop and doing a up and down small stitch.  Monotonous to do, but brain calming.  I could sit for a long time and just work.  The outline and stems were more fun to do.  After doing so much stitching, I now have very nice even spacing and tension.

I did documentation for a competition this weekend.  It is for Athena's Thimble, the SCA Embroidery Guild.  I also approach this with the feeling, "what should I say".  It's an Embroidered Coif.  They know what it is, I know what it is, so what do I say.  Somehow I always find two pages to say.  Hopefully it is enough/correct/understandable etc.  I know what I mean.  Oh well.

Next I want to work on some smaller projects.  One is a gold thread blackwork collar & cuffs to go on Bob's new shirt for his outfit.  Looking at what he (Henry VIII) wore, but Holbein's portrait is not clear.  So the Blackwork at that time was Geometric in shape, so I'm thinking using this pattern from Hans Hofer book from the 1500's that Linn Skinner has figured out. It has acorns in the pattern.  And the pattern is not too wide, so the size will be right.  Have matched the thread, and ordered the Splendor Gold Silk from Nordic Needle.  Waiting for it to come in.

Other projects I want to start on.  Lacis.  Applique.  and Canvas work. 

Fabric found

Well the trip to Loraine's fabric was a success.  The U-shaped jerkin will be of Medium Old Gold Cotton Velvet.  The detached sleeves also of this fabric.  The Doublet will be of a cream Damask, with a diamond pattern in it.  If I have enough fabric, a second pair of sleeves will be made.  Plan on slashing this fabric and putting deep gold/amber cabochons in between.  Have never slashed fabric, for some reason this goes against my nature.  But think I will try this.  Very Period.  Also picked up material, an off white linen for the shirt. The Gown will be lined in a dark brown, this will match the fur collar and blend the inside of the coat.  The Gold velvet will reflect nicely off it.  Also purchashed 6 yards (not really enough) of a bronz metallic trim.  The design and color are correct.  Where I will use it don't know yet.

Purchased 5 cards of Splendor Old Gold Silk Thread from Nordic Needles for the embroidery.

On a trip to Joann's saw a gold Damask in the Home Decor section which is the exact same shade as the Velvet, so I bought it for a back up for the Doublet. Also got a lot of a deeper gold shade of a silk material for the jerkin lining.

Now have all the major material pieces for the outfit.  There will always be smaller purchases, but overall the material has cost close to 300.00+.  I have had the fur for a lone time so I don't remember how much I paid for it.  I have always said the SCA is not expensive, but the toys will kill you. 

Before I start all this want to finish the Coif.  Tomorrow I will cut out the trial one and make it up.  I have looked closely at the bottom of the real coif.  I have blown up the picture, and what I took for lace at the bottom, is actually the gathered cord channel.  So NO lace. 

Time to start a new project.

Have several ideas in mind.  The biggest is for my Husband Bob.  A Fun trimmed Gown, U shapped Jerking, Side lace doublet, Gold Embroidered Trimmed Shirt, and Hose.  King Henry the VIII.  Found the perfect material for the Gown (Coat) but getting all the other pieces to color coordinate, or not clash, is a challenge.  Also cost is always a factor.  Have found some "perfect" fabric, but with 35-50 a yard price tags, I have passed.  Jo-Ann's is having a 40% off sale on Home Decor fabric, and a lot of coupons, some for 50% off this week, so some serious looking is going on.  The leading contender is $44 minus 40% is still $ 27 a yard x 4.5 yds = $120 = ouch.   So off to look a Lorraine fabric again this morning.  Looking, Researching,  looking, thinking, looking, thinking, Reading Tudor Tailor, Looking, Sleeping on it, that is the first part in any project. 
I have looked at all the on-line protraits of Henry VIII.  Interesting, there are multiple portraits of him in the extract same stance, so they copied previous protraits.  The only difference is the color, decoration, of the outfits. 

Embroidered Coif Project.  Update.  Have finally sewed all the paillettes onto the coif.  Have been rinsing out the embroidery tracing lines.  This was done with a water soluable pen, designed for this.  The problem seems to be the ink will run a bit into another area and only shows up after dryin.  This required a couple of days of follow up spot cleaning. Pulling out the white linen from stash and I'm gong to make a mock up - same size - in plain white linen to check on fitting.  I will then use this coif as a prize for the A&S competition in April.  The picture of the original coif shows a border around the outside edge of a simple button hole stitch.  This may have also been used to hold the two layers together.  Doing more research into this.

Time's a wasting.  Lorraine's open at 9 so got to go.