Coif

After two plus years of work, I have finished my Coif.

I had seen these patterns on Reconstructing History's web site.  I was not sure what they actually were, but I was intrigued.  I had been looking at Janet Arnold's new book of Accessories, and had seen this coif that was monochromatic.  I liked it.  I was heavily into Blackwork, and this was curvilinear blackwork in red, or so I thought.  Then I was shopping at Birka, and there at the RH booth were the patterns.  So I got to look at them.  I said, hey I can do this.  No problem.  So I bought three different ones, and - innocent me - figured I could knock these off in no time.  Two years later, what I have learned.
Finding a picture of the actual Coif at the Victoria and Albert Museum web site was a bonus.  The V&A site lets you download very high definition pictures.  These I can then crop or cut and past to a Word page, blow it up, and see the details.  With this in hand I was able to figure out the exact stitches used.  I used this picture also to guide me as to how to shade them with the speckling stitch.  This stitch I had to teach myself the best way to do it.  At first I tried to do it from the front as just very small running stitch, but the best way ended up putting it into a hoop and doing a up and down small stitch.  Monotonous to do, but brain calming.  I could sit for a long time and just work.  The outline and stems were more fun to do.  After doing so much stitching, I now have very nice even spacing and tension.

I did documentation for a competition this weekend.  It is for Athena's Thimble, the SCA Embroidery Guild.  I also approach this with the feeling, "what should I say".  It's an Embroidered Coif.  They know what it is, I know what it is, so what do I say.  Somehow I always find two pages to say.  Hopefully it is enough/correct/understandable etc.  I know what I mean.  Oh well.

Next I want to work on some smaller projects.  One is a gold thread blackwork collar & cuffs to go on Bob's new shirt for his outfit.  Looking at what he (Henry VIII) wore, but Holbein's portrait is not clear.  So the Blackwork at that time was Geometric in shape, so I'm thinking using this pattern from Hans Hofer book from the 1500's that Linn Skinner has figured out. It has acorns in the pattern.  And the pattern is not too wide, so the size will be right.  Have matched the thread, and ordered the Splendor Gold Silk from Nordic Needle.  Waiting for it to come in.

Other projects I want to start on.  Lacis.  Applique.  and Canvas work. 

Fabric found

Well the trip to Loraine's fabric was a success.  The U-shaped jerkin will be of Medium Old Gold Cotton Velvet.  The detached sleeves also of this fabric.  The Doublet will be of a cream Damask, with a diamond pattern in it.  If I have enough fabric, a second pair of sleeves will be made.  Plan on slashing this fabric and putting deep gold/amber cabochons in between.  Have never slashed fabric, for some reason this goes against my nature.  But think I will try this.  Very Period.  Also picked up material, an off white linen for the shirt. The Gown will be lined in a dark brown, this will match the fur collar and blend the inside of the coat.  The Gold velvet will reflect nicely off it.  Also purchashed 6 yards (not really enough) of a bronz metallic trim.  The design and color are correct.  Where I will use it don't know yet.

Purchased 5 cards of Splendor Old Gold Silk Thread from Nordic Needles for the embroidery.

On a trip to Joann's saw a gold Damask in the Home Decor section which is the exact same shade as the Velvet, so I bought it for a back up for the Doublet. Also got a lot of a deeper gold shade of a silk material for the jerkin lining.

Now have all the major material pieces for the outfit.  There will always be smaller purchases, but overall the material has cost close to 300.00+.  I have had the fur for a lone time so I don't remember how much I paid for it.  I have always said the SCA is not expensive, but the toys will kill you. 

Before I start all this want to finish the Coif.  Tomorrow I will cut out the trial one and make it up.  I have looked closely at the bottom of the real coif.  I have blown up the picture, and what I took for lace at the bottom, is actually the gathered cord channel.  So NO lace. 

Time to start a new project.

Have several ideas in mind.  The biggest is for my Husband Bob.  A Fun trimmed Gown, U shapped Jerking, Side lace doublet, Gold Embroidered Trimmed Shirt, and Hose.  King Henry the VIII.  Found the perfect material for the Gown (Coat) but getting all the other pieces to color coordinate, or not clash, is a challenge.  Also cost is always a factor.  Have found some "perfect" fabric, but with 35-50 a yard price tags, I have passed.  Jo-Ann's is having a 40% off sale on Home Decor fabric, and a lot of coupons, some for 50% off this week, so some serious looking is going on.  The leading contender is $44 minus 40% is still $ 27 a yard x 4.5 yds = $120 = ouch.   So off to look a Lorraine fabric again this morning.  Looking, Researching,  looking, thinking, looking, thinking, Reading Tudor Tailor, Looking, Sleeping on it, that is the first part in any project. 
I have looked at all the on-line protraits of Henry VIII.  Interesting, there are multiple portraits of him in the extract same stance, so they copied previous protraits.  The only difference is the color, decoration, of the outfits. 

Embroidered Coif Project.  Update.  Have finally sewed all the paillettes onto the coif.  Have been rinsing out the embroidery tracing lines.  This was done with a water soluable pen, designed for this.  The problem seems to be the ink will run a bit into another area and only shows up after dryin.  This required a couple of days of follow up spot cleaning. Pulling out the white linen from stash and I'm gong to make a mock up - same size - in plain white linen to check on fitting.  I will then use this coif as a prize for the A&S competition in April.  The picture of the original coif shows a border around the outside edge of a simple button hole stitch.  This may have also been used to hold the two layers together.  Doing more research into this.

Time's a wasting.  Lorraine's open at 9 so got to go.   

Apprentice

I have become an apprentice to Mistress/Baroness Nest verch Tangwistel.  She will guide me in my studies, and help me in my research.  She has studied both Clothing and Embrodiery, so she is the perfect Mistress to work with.  I was presented with my Green Apprentice belt at the Ice Weasel event.  I had prepared the belt for presentation by adding the Celtic Conchos and spots to the belt.  That was my first leather work, although Bob had to punch many of the spots, as my hand were not strong enough to punch them thru. 

I promised pictures

There are a few items I still plan on doing to this gown.  The puffed sleeves do not "puff" enough for me.  I plan on making strips of gathered ilusion and stuff them thru the supports into the gathered section.  This should fill them out.  Also in the Portrait there shows some type of ribbon and bead along the outside seam edge of the velvet sleeves.  I will add these also.  I also plan on making a fake gathered sleeve end to make it appear there is a chemise underneath.  Since there are already two layers of dress, a third will make this too warm for me to wear, so a little faking is needed.

Catch up time

I realize it has been sometime since I've posted.  Life happens.  A sad occurance came into my life.  My beautiful Niece died suddenly.  She was only 32 yrs old.  She was so full of life & talented.  She took on life with happiness.  She will be sorely missed.  Too my end, I was in Kentucky with family for two weeks.  When I returned I needed time to get my life back in order.  This put my plans to have the dress done by the SCA event BIRKA on hold.  I was home in time to be able to go to the event and enjoy myself.

I completed the dress by the Ice Weasel event.  The skirt needed to be attached to the Bodice.  I gathered the skirt with 1 inch Cartridge pleats.  I then sewed each pleat directly to the top.  While gathering and attaching I came to the realization that  when you pull the cords the pleat forms with the thread in the middle, not the bottom.  So when measuring and starting the pleating you must figure an additional 1/2 inch (for the 1 inch pleats) from your starting place.  This may sound confusing, but I understand.  I had some problem at the start and end.  I had to detach and resew the ending because the spacing was incorrect. 
Once the skirt was attached, the hem was done with a 1 1/2 inch turned hem.  I know this is not period, but I turned the hem at the ironing board with Stitch Witch.  The Poly Taffeta was extremely slippery, and I could not turn and pin 8 yards of hem.  I used the SW for holding purposes.  I then hand sewed the hem, as I know that the SW will not hold.  But this did stiffen the hem, and allowed me to stitch the hem evenly  and without pins.
The Parlett was made using a very fine illusion material.  This material gives the sheerness needed, but is &$%#@ stuff to work on.  After cutting and fitting the ilusion material, to prevent edge shredding I bound the outside edges in Double Fold Bias tape.  This fit nicely around the raw edge and gave stability to the Partlett.  I could not double fold the edges of the ilusion.  It will not take a pressed fold.  And being a time factor, I did not have the time to delicatly sew the edge down.  And it kept shredding.  So this was a great solution. 
A crisscross of Trim was sewed on top of the ilusion.  The trim was a light gold sheer trim, with regular diamonds.  I layed out the pattern (many pinnings)  and sewed it down.  I had barely enough trim.  I actually went back to Loraine Fabrics in Pawt.  to see If I could find more.  Both Bob and I searched thru the hugh trim section in hopes of find another yard or two.  I purchased five, and failed to follow my own rules.  "YOU CAN NEVER BUY ENOUGH TRIM"  or "BUY IT ALL".  I managed to place the trim to cover the exposed section, but would have liked more to cover to the edges, so if the parlett puffs out, the trim ends do not show.  Next Partlett will be better.  You learn from every attempt.  I them attached a collar to the partlett.  I wanted the neck to be very open, so the Pearl necklace would show.  I cut the collar 2 inches shorter in width.  Since I was out of trim, I used a gold China time which complemented the sheer trim.  This I sewed to outline the top edges of the collar, and then across the neckline and down the front.  The front edge was to seal that edge from shredding, and for appearence.  This worked fine.  I then sewed a 8mm pearl at each crossing of the sheer trim.  I debated between 6mm and 8mm pearls.  The 6mm fit nicely into the diamon of the trim, the mm popped out but looked more like the Partlett of Eleanor of Toledo.  So I went with the Larger Pearl, and it looked good. 

I will post pictures of the finished pieces next.

I presented the dress at the Tailor Guild panel at the SCA Ice Weasel event.  It was very well received.  This dress was not the dress decided upon as my Master Work, thus I was not given my Master.  This I knew when making this dress, that it was not "the" Dress.  This was done as a Predress.  I wanted to work out some fitting and making problems.  This dress presented the following challenges to me.  1)How to do the back side lacing and fitting.  The pattern base I used, was period.  There is no side seam, as Modern pattern have.  This made fitting difficult on me.  2) How to do the sleeve Gathers.  I built a support structure into the sleeves to hold the gathers.   3) How to do the Undersleeve.  The first sleeves I made had a full undersleeve.  Though this worked, Did not give the look I wanted as the bottom required a seperate band to gather on.   So I followed the suggestion in Reconstructing History pattern, and sewed just a seperate piece -velvet - to the gathered section.  4) Dress over dress.  I had to cut the overdress slightly larger so it would fit over the underdress.  Figuring out all the differences was difficult.  The neckline had to be hand cut after, as this was not to be larger, but wider.
5) Hand sewed button holes.  The underdress was lined in a heavy cotton broadcloth.  This does not "give" when the awl goes thru, and was hard to sew.  The same was true of the Poly Taffeta.  The lacing holes are small as a result and hard to lace.  I made extra long lacings, but will always need assistance getting into and out of this dress. 

I plan on stuffing the top of the dress sleeves with pieces of gathered ilusion.  The sleeves look flat, even though they are gathered.  This should puff them out as they appear in the Portrait.
Overall I am satified with the dress.

Currently I am working on my other major project.  I am now sewing 300+ Paillettes onto the finished embroidery.  I finally found a way of getting the Paillettes.  After several attempts, I located the Krenik paillettes.  You need to order them thru the internet to a local shop.  There is a vendor in Walpole - Hoops and Needles on Rt 27 (in downtown) who can do this.  I ordered 10 grams of size 12, but they sent me size 14.  These are only a .01mm diffence in size, and I can barely tell the difference.  I had already sewed the 12's onto the coif, but had stretched these out.  I will fill in that section with 14 and I think that will cause the overall look to blend.  You would need to get REAL close to tell the difference.
This may be done by the March event. 

I am planning on my next works.  I had promised Bob a outfit.  This is to be a Henry VIII coat w/fur collar and Knee length doublet(s).  Having a problem finding the "right" material to go with the coat material for the doulet.  I had found this wonderful brown fabric with a gold pattern featuring leaping dear and other hunting/animals for the coat.  Doing a brown "fur" collar.  It is a strange shade of brown/gold.  I would like to do an offwhite/cream doublet with some gold in it.  This fabric so far aludes me.   Oh dear, I will have to go fabric shopping. :-)

I then will do the Tailor Guild master work.  As there will most like not be another meeting soon, I have plenty of time. 

update 1/7/2012

Have been working on the top of the dress.  1st had to determine how to enlarge the pattern to fit over the underdress.  I cut the dress about 1/4 of an inch larger then the pattern.  This worked out well, but the back was not large enough to meet.  I ended up letting out the center back seam . The two layers of material I decided were not going to be solid enough for the top.  I have a very light Taffata, and a heavier silk (polyester) lining.  The skirt needs to be sew onto this top, and I feared the weight would cause pulling.  So Picture one show cutting out a red linen interlining.  This I flat lined to the under lining material. I attached the two layer by ballon method, I then hand turned the bottom of the bodice towards each other and whipped stitched the edge.  I now have a nice solid bottom to attach the cartridge pleats to. 
I increased the width of the sleeves by 4 inches, so there is more to gather.  I used the same support structure I used for the linen sleeves to prevent sagging.  These sleeves were then gathered directly onto the velvet undersleeve.  I stay stitched the armhole opening together, and gathered the sleeve onto the Bodice.  Had to use my best guess as to where the undersleeve attaches to the gathered top in regards to the back center seam.  The gather part has a center botton seam, and the velvet has a seam in the back to the arm.  So had to off center this.  Moved it two inches over. Came out OK.  Maybe I should have move it more, but It works.
Last.  around the neck of the dress you can clearly see a seam that runs about 1/4 inch down.  This creates a look, but also help stablize the neck edge.  It is hard to tell exactly what was done.  I decided to Hand stitch a seam around the top, using back stitch, with a button hole stitch every inch, which I pulled to give a little indent. I am using antique gold colored silk thread.  The partlett will have the same old gold look to it.
The top of the skirt has been turned 1 1/2 inch.  A band of 1 inch red linen was inserted, and the edge turned in.  I used stitch witch to do this, as the idea of hand sewing 290 inches of edging were undaunting.  Also looks nice.  I have measured out the band for 1 inch pleats.  I like the size, but the tale will be attaching these to the bodice. 
Next up will be the back lacing holes.  Didn't count but should be 30-40 button holes to sew.  Have a strong red button threads, which I like to use.  Finding button thread in red suprised me, but it's perfect.  I did the Linen dresses button holes in this tread, and it works.  But that was a heavier material then this so I will experiment on scrape first.
Off to do more hand sewing.