All together now

Just realized it has been a month since I have posted.  The dress is now together.  The skirt was Cartridge pleated and then sewn onto the Bodice. 

The skirt is so nice and full.  Downside, it is heavy.  I have always worn my farthingale, made with rigid tubes, under my skirts, and the ribs did not show.  For some strange reason they show through with this skirt.  I think because the skirt is so heavy it is laying against the ribs and not just flowing out.  So I have come up with a solution, which is most likely not period.  Instead of making a heavy underskirt, say of wool, which would pad the farthingale, and be heavier still, and hotter.  I have bought some light weight quilted material.  It is cotton on both sides with a light padding between.  I am making an over skirt for the farthingale to cover it.  This will hide the ribs, and support the heavy skirt.  I actually saw this done for costumes from a movie site.  The movie was Elizabeth with Cate Blanchette.  I was looking at the back stage pictures, and the skirts of the dresses were all hiked up (probably to protect them) and under what showed were these hugh quilted Skirts.  These were much bigger then I even plan on doing.  Of course that was theatre, but in many respects what I'm doing here is theatre also.  In period, the ruling party, and especially Elizabeth, dressed to the nines to show off.  I read that Elizabeth would come out every day onto the upper Walkway (ran between two of the Palace buildings).  She would parade in one of her beautiful gowns.  All the people could come and watch, wave to her, and at time talk with her.  This was one of the qualities that endured Elizabeth to her people.  It was theatre, for the people.  But I'm wandering off, where I like to go. 

The Partlett is coming along quickly.  It is simple, in a way.  One layer of this wonderful material I found at Loraine fabric, in their Discount loft no less (1.99 a yard).  It is Cotton lawn.  Embroidered on it is a white and pink pattern. 

The edge is done with a Pearl piping.  Can't see that too well.  Then I am going to wire this with Milliner wire so it stand out and frames the neck/face.  I see these standing partlets in Moda a Firenze and like them.  If this works I may make a more elaborate one with ruffles on the edge, not pearls. But I wanted a simple yet eloquent look for this partlet, and feel I will achieve it.  This material will be sheer enough so that the blackwork on the Chemise underneath will show through. 

As to the blackwork neck edging.  That is 90% done.  A couple more sessions with the needle should finish it.  Then I plan on tuning the edges. and then Gathering, or pleating, the linen for the chemise to it.  This will be a very full chemise.  The sleeves especially will be extra full, so I can Pouffe out the material.

After that is the Hem on the dress.   Closing fast now.