What I am attempting to create.

I have been asked.  "What are you making"  a legitimate question. 

This is know as the Red Pisa Dress, Early 1560.  It is cut in the style of Eleanor of Toledo.  This dress was not found in the inventory of Eleanor's dresses when she died in 1562.  It is thought to be one of the dresses made for Eleanor's Ladies in Waiting (13 of them) on the occassion of the ceremonial trips to Siena and Rome in 1560.  Most likely they were made in the workshop of her tailor, Mastro Agostino, and mostly he followed the same pattern and techniques as the court gowns he made Eleanor.  The gown had been donated to an Adjacent Convent, San Matteo, where it was on a wooden Statue of the Virgin May.  This gown has now been restored and is on display at the Museo di Plazzo Reale in Pisa.

This is a petticoat.  In Italy the Petticoat would have been worn under the gown.  But in the period of time between 1540 and 1560, when Eleanor was preeminent, the petticoat came out into it's own or out from under the gown.  In the late 1560 it again moved back under the gown. 

http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/extant.html

The above site contain many of the existant Italian pieces, and more detailed information can be found here. 

This dress can also be found in the book  Moda a Firenze 1540 - 1580.  It is often shown with Eleanor's funeral dress, which was able to be partially restored.

What I am doing same/different from this dress.

First I am making a front closing Bodice.  Dispite being an Lady in the SCA, have a dresser is not always available. 

I have worked on the Bodice and Sleeves so far.  I do not have enough trim to effect the double row of trim effect.  But the Trim I am using is wide, and gives a fair representation.  The petticoat is in Rose Cotton Velvet.  The trim is commercial, but accents the Rose color.  The dress is being lined in White Duck.  There is evidence that these dresses had interlining.  Janet Arnold mentions this in her Book "Pattern of Fashion 1560-1620"  A coarse Linen was believed to have been used.  The White duck will provide the strength and form I believe the dress needs. 

The sleeves are paned.  This design is from Margo Anderson's  Patterns.  Looking at the sleeve, and knowing by ability, I decided I could obtain the same look by making these.  I need to modify the top of the Panes now to encoporate the open tabs that can be seen. 

"And so it begins"

The sewing bug has finally bit.  Hot steamy weather has sent me to the cellar sewing room. 

Bodice.  Worked on the fitting some more.  Was not happy with how the shoulder connected.  Ended up attaching the should straps of the white structure material by laying on top and over sewing.  I then used it as a guide and cut out a new velvet bodice piece, and new lining piece with the shoulder straps as part of the front.  ( for clarity purposes.  Bodice is composed of three pieces. 1) Velvet outside.  2) white duck structure  3) pink lining material-should be silk but is poly for price reasons)  After I did all that I discovered I had misjuded the Velvet bodice back, and cut it too small.  Had to recut that piece also.  Waste of velvet.  '
First I worked on the trim for the front and back of the bodice. 

After this was sewn on, I flatlined the structre material, which has the boning channel in the front sewn into it, to the velvet, then I sewed the Bodice together.

The back came out looking to angular, but it follows the straight line of the trim from the shoulders down.  And is equi distant from the side seam,

Next I were the Paned Sleeves.  I made these out of three layers, Velvet, white duck, and pink lining.

see and so it begins take two for the rest of the story.

"And so It begins." take two

I was unaware that the other version had saved, I thought I had lost it, but will keep both. 

Began working on my new dress.  The hot steamy weather has sent me to the cellar sewing room, cool and quiet. 
Day one I worked on the Bodice.  I had the Structure layer, of white duck, pinned together after the fitting.  I had sewn the boning channels for the front into this layer already.  I took this apart and transferred the changes to the other two layers.  I did not like the way I had cut the shoulder straps as seperate pieces from the front bodice.  So I reworked the structure layer to have the shoulder straps with the front section, and recut the Velvet and Lining layers.  Now no shoulder front strap seam.  I also discovered that I had layed out the Velvet bodice back using the wrong mark  thus it was two inches to small, this also was recut. 

With all the correct pieces now on to assembly.  First step was trim. 

Careful edge stitching attached the trim to the Bodice.

Second was flat lining of the White Structure to the Velvet Bodice.  After that I Sewed the seams together, except for the shoulder back. 

Second Sewing Day.   Started work on the Paned sleeves.  These sleeves will be in three layers, like the bodice.  Velvet, White duck, and pink lining.  I decided to pipe the edges.  This will give them a crisp edge, and something for the buttons to be sewn to. 

These are going together quickly.  Found I needed to use my old sewing machine for the piping.  It is doing a much cleaner job then the fancy new(erish) machine.  I have ordered a piping foot for the new machine.  It's not new, most likely 20years old, but newer then the other.  The Old machine is still a trooper.  It is a all metal case machine, with a knee throttle.  You can't kill this baby.  I digress.
The panel are mostly assembled.  Length and top edge need to be worked on.  I want to do a band at the top of trim.  Now need buttons.  Figure I need 42 or more to connect the panes.   Might have to wait until Pennsic to find what I want. 

Next to decide If I want to pipe around the Bodice. 

welcome back to me

Has been a while since I updated by diary.  After finishing the gown and coif, I took a break.  One of the reasons was I Took a wonderful trip to Italy.  Spent a couple of weeks clothes shopping and doing prep work to go, then went for 14 wonderful days.  I would go back to the Tuscany area.  My interest are more there then in other parts of Italy, but did enjoy seeing all the various areas, Amalfi coast, Pompii, Capri, Rome, etc. 

Since then I have been in the planning stage for a couple of items.
1st,  Bob's outfit.  I know I promised him the next outfit.  So I went shopping and found all the material I needed before I left for Italy.  That project is still just sitting there.    I did start on his shirts embroidery.  Since this was to be a Henry the VIII outfit, the painting shows his shirts embroidered in Gold.  So I sent away for 5 skeins of antique gold silk thread.  I started to do work on some evenweave linen from Jo-Ann's   I was not happy with the amount of slubs I found in the fabric.  So I spluged and got a piece of nice even weave fabric from Nordic Needle.  This fabric was much nicer.  Doing it on 32 count.  Maybe should have done it on 40, but the scale on this looks right.  It is A acron and cross (X) pattern from,  "Bands from Hans Hofer's New Formbuch'len Augsberg 1545 Lots 18"   Charted and plotted for reversible stitching by Linn R Skinner.  According to the author Hofer's books were printed using woodcuts and were illustration, not instructions.  The author has adapted them into reversible patterns.
2nd  My master work. 
I have cut out the top for my Master work gown. The fabric had some water damage on it from the flood and I had given up on it. I found that I was able to rescue most of it, So I am off, at a snail pace. I have fitted the bodice structure, but it sits there in needles. I need to comitte to the fit and start sewing.  The bodice is always the hardest part.
Had several people over laterly to do sewing, or get ideas:
Loaned a sewing maching out to Josh, so he could make Pennsic clothes for his little daughter and wife.  He's a good kid.  Gave him some basic sewing lessons a few years back.  He caught on quickly.  He not making fancy stuff, just needful.
Evelyn (Kristen) continues to work on a tunic for husband.  It is tough for her to find the time to come over.  I said she can work on it on her own, but she doesn't feel confident enough yet.  So the project linger.
Deb Ross wants more tunic and pants for Pennsic.  She is willing to make a couple of Kirtles also.  We went over the basic patterns, and went cloth shopping at Jo-Ann's.  Now she needs to do cut out and sewing.  Time is her enemy.  She needs to put this on a front burner.  She has two dress, two pants, and several tunic. 
Christine Woods came over last night.  She wants to make a Tudor Dress for her Handfasting in September.  The dress is a cream linen.  She has a beautiful Purple trim.  She has sewn before but has never tried to do something this complicated.  We went over various patterns/styles.  Looks like Early Tudor, Jane Seymore style.  Finding the underskirt, and arms parts to compliment/match will take a couple of shopping trips.  Looks like Puple and Gold fabric.  A trip to Loraine fabic is in the future.  OH Boy  :)

I have promised Bob a fishing trip today, but the weather does not looks like it will cooperate.  So will go out and find something to do with him. 

Coif

After two plus years of work, I have finished my Coif.

I had seen these patterns on Reconstructing History's web site.  I was not sure what they actually were, but I was intrigued.  I had been looking at Janet Arnold's new book of Accessories, and had seen this coif that was monochromatic.  I liked it.  I was heavily into Blackwork, and this was curvilinear blackwork in red, or so I thought.  Then I was shopping at Birka, and there at the RH booth were the patterns.  So I got to look at them.  I said, hey I can do this.  No problem.  So I bought three different ones, and - innocent me - figured I could knock these off in no time.  Two years later, what I have learned.
Finding a picture of the actual Coif at the Victoria and Albert Museum web site was a bonus.  The V&A site lets you download very high definition pictures.  These I can then crop or cut and past to a Word page, blow it up, and see the details.  With this in hand I was able to figure out the exact stitches used.  I used this picture also to guide me as to how to shade them with the speckling stitch.  This stitch I had to teach myself the best way to do it.  At first I tried to do it from the front as just very small running stitch, but the best way ended up putting it into a hoop and doing a up and down small stitch.  Monotonous to do, but brain calming.  I could sit for a long time and just work.  The outline and stems were more fun to do.  After doing so much stitching, I now have very nice even spacing and tension.

I did documentation for a competition this weekend.  It is for Athena's Thimble, the SCA Embroidery Guild.  I also approach this with the feeling, "what should I say".  It's an Embroidered Coif.  They know what it is, I know what it is, so what do I say.  Somehow I always find two pages to say.  Hopefully it is enough/correct/understandable etc.  I know what I mean.  Oh well.

Next I want to work on some smaller projects.  One is a gold thread blackwork collar & cuffs to go on Bob's new shirt for his outfit.  Looking at what he (Henry VIII) wore, but Holbein's portrait is not clear.  So the Blackwork at that time was Geometric in shape, so I'm thinking using this pattern from Hans Hofer book from the 1500's that Linn Skinner has figured out. It has acorns in the pattern.  And the pattern is not too wide, so the size will be right.  Have matched the thread, and ordered the Splendor Gold Silk from Nordic Needle.  Waiting for it to come in.

Other projects I want to start on.  Lacis.  Applique.  and Canvas work. 

Fabric found

Well the trip to Loraine's fabric was a success.  The U-shaped jerkin will be of Medium Old Gold Cotton Velvet.  The detached sleeves also of this fabric.  The Doublet will be of a cream Damask, with a diamond pattern in it.  If I have enough fabric, a second pair of sleeves will be made.  Plan on slashing this fabric and putting deep gold/amber cabochons in between.  Have never slashed fabric, for some reason this goes against my nature.  But think I will try this.  Very Period.  Also picked up material, an off white linen for the shirt. The Gown will be lined in a dark brown, this will match the fur collar and blend the inside of the coat.  The Gold velvet will reflect nicely off it.  Also purchashed 6 yards (not really enough) of a bronz metallic trim.  The design and color are correct.  Where I will use it don't know yet.

Purchased 5 cards of Splendor Old Gold Silk Thread from Nordic Needles for the embroidery.

On a trip to Joann's saw a gold Damask in the Home Decor section which is the exact same shade as the Velvet, so I bought it for a back up for the Doublet. Also got a lot of a deeper gold shade of a silk material for the jerkin lining.

Now have all the major material pieces for the outfit.  There will always be smaller purchases, but overall the material has cost close to 300.00+.  I have had the fur for a lone time so I don't remember how much I paid for it.  I have always said the SCA is not expensive, but the toys will kill you. 

Before I start all this want to finish the Coif.  Tomorrow I will cut out the trial one and make it up.  I have looked closely at the bottom of the real coif.  I have blown up the picture, and what I took for lace at the bottom, is actually the gathered cord channel.  So NO lace. 

Time to start a new project.

Have several ideas in mind.  The biggest is for my Husband Bob.  A Fun trimmed Gown, U shapped Jerking, Side lace doublet, Gold Embroidered Trimmed Shirt, and Hose.  King Henry the VIII.  Found the perfect material for the Gown (Coat) but getting all the other pieces to color coordinate, or not clash, is a challenge.  Also cost is always a factor.  Have found some "perfect" fabric, but with 35-50 a yard price tags, I have passed.  Jo-Ann's is having a 40% off sale on Home Decor fabric, and a lot of coupons, some for 50% off this week, so some serious looking is going on.  The leading contender is $44 minus 40% is still $ 27 a yard x 4.5 yds = $120 = ouch.   So off to look a Lorraine fabric again this morning.  Looking, Researching,  looking, thinking, looking, thinking, Reading Tudor Tailor, Looking, Sleeping on it, that is the first part in any project. 
I have looked at all the on-line protraits of Henry VIII.  Interesting, there are multiple portraits of him in the extract same stance, so they copied previous protraits.  The only difference is the color, decoration, of the outfits. 

Embroidered Coif Project.  Update.  Have finally sewed all the paillettes onto the coif.  Have been rinsing out the embroidery tracing lines.  This was done with a water soluable pen, designed for this.  The problem seems to be the ink will run a bit into another area and only shows up after dryin.  This required a couple of days of follow up spot cleaning. Pulling out the white linen from stash and I'm gong to make a mock up - same size - in plain white linen to check on fitting.  I will then use this coif as a prize for the A&S competition in April.  The picture of the original coif shows a border around the outside edge of a simple button hole stitch.  This may have also been used to hold the two layers together.  Doing more research into this.

Time's a wasting.  Lorraine's open at 9 so got to go.