The light goes on at JoAnn's

Went to Joann Saturday.  I Have this idea of doing the Gown in the Red Taffeta.  The sleeves in the portrait are of a dark, wine color.  Look like a heavy material, not a silk  So decided to go look for a dark cranberry velvet.  At Joann the cotton velveteen is a light cranberry at 15 a yard.  The premium vetvet was darker and richer, but 26 a yard.  I brought both up to the cutting counter, still undecided.  The Red Taffeta was not contrasting well with the cotton velveteen, and did not really want to spend 50 on 2 yard of premium.  Though I had a 50% off coupon.  That is when the light bulb went off in my head.  I Have 20 yards of dark, very dark premium velvet in the closet.  Dummy.  It is like a dark brown/plum color.  I had bought it at a going out of business sale in Boston 10 yrs ago easily. I got it for 5 a yard. So this morning I went down to the sewing room and pulled it out.  It is Perfect.  Actually matches the color of the sleeves in the portrait.  That settled it.  I am doing the gown in the Bronzino portrait of "Lucrezia Panciatrichi" actually as painted. 
The gown bottom looks to be fuller then the RC pattern I followed for the Linen dress.  The bottom appears to be Cartridge Pleats.  So I think the Taffeta is a good material for those pleats. 
I am going with a back lacing on this gown.  I have looked a numerous portraits from the period.  One think I have notice is that the larger sleeves from early periods, and theses sleeves, you do NOT see any of the Chemise pulled thru at the shoulders.  Most of the sleeves that are attached with lacing, straps etc, the under chemise is evident at the shoulders.  Or the Portraits clearly show spaces around the shoulder edge.  This has made my decision to do the center back lacing.  Now the ruched sleeve top will match the portrait.  I will still have the v-back, but this will be sewed together.  I am actually thinking of making these ruched top even fuller then the RC pattern I followed.  Fuller = better.  The gather threads are another problem.  I think I will do them this time of double button hole tread.  There is a lot of pressure on these gather lines.