update 12/23/2011

Build the support structured into the rached sleeves.  They are simple straps from the top to bottom and the gather lines are stitched tho them.  Center at 7 inches long, two sides at 4 inches, and a back one, under the sleeves at two inches.  Created the stability needed.  The sleeve works.  But I think the material is too heavy, or not stiff enough.  There is no Poof, lots of gather.  But they still sag a bit.  SOOOOOOOOOO.
Changing fabric.  The brocade may work, but I have 8 yards of Red Taffeta.  This material is more correct to the portrait.  So have to decide what to do. 

Also have to decide on the back of the dress.  The Linen under dress has back sides lacing.  This makes sewing in the sleeves impossible.  Now the Linen dress gathered sleeves are done as seperate, and will be tied in at shoulders.  I am now considering doing a back center lacing for the overdress, then the sleeves can be sewn directly into the gown.  Hummmmmmmmmm.