The sleeve material looks black here, but is actually a deep plum color.

Now I am debating the size of the pleats.  Do I do 1 inch or 1/2 inch Cartridge pleats.  I have 290 inches of material to pleat down to my waist size of 42 inches.  Have made a test piece from scrap doing a 1 inch pleat.  Found that the 290 would condense to at 18 inch waist.  So I added a lining in the top inch of red linen.  It now pleats to a 27 inche waist.  Still now enough.  Went to a an 1/2 inch pleat.  This pleats to a 32 inch waist.  The 1/2 look delicate.  The dress picture looks more like the 1 inch pleats to me.  I'm counting the number per inch, guestimation.  I will have to spread out the pleats on the band to make this work.