update 1/7/2012

Have been working on the top of the dress.  1st had to determine how to enlarge the pattern to fit over the underdress.  I cut the dress about 1/4 of an inch larger then the pattern.  This worked out well, but the back was not large enough to meet.  I ended up letting out the center back seam . The two layers of material I decided were not going to be solid enough for the top.  I have a very light Taffata, and a heavier silk (polyester) lining.  The skirt needs to be sew onto this top, and I feared the weight would cause pulling.  So Picture one show cutting out a red linen interlining.  This I flat lined to the under lining material. I attached the two layer by ballon method, I then hand turned the bottom of the bodice towards each other and whipped stitched the edge.  I now have a nice solid bottom to attach the cartridge pleats to. 
I increased the width of the sleeves by 4 inches, so there is more to gather.  I used the same support structure I used for the linen sleeves to prevent sagging.  These sleeves were then gathered directly onto the velvet undersleeve.  I stay stitched the armhole opening together, and gathered the sleeve onto the Bodice.  Had to use my best guess as to where the undersleeve attaches to the gathered top in regards to the back center seam.  The gather part has a center botton seam, and the velvet has a seam in the back to the arm.  So had to off center this.  Moved it two inches over. Came out OK.  Maybe I should have move it more, but It works.
Last.  around the neck of the dress you can clearly see a seam that runs about 1/4 inch down.  This creates a look, but also help stablize the neck edge.  It is hard to tell exactly what was done.  I decided to Hand stitch a seam around the top, using back stitch, with a button hole stitch every inch, which I pulled to give a little indent. I am using antique gold colored silk thread.  The partlett will have the same old gold look to it.
The top of the skirt has been turned 1 1/2 inch.  A band of 1 inch red linen was inserted, and the edge turned in.  I used stitch witch to do this, as the idea of hand sewing 290 inches of edging were undaunting.  Also looks nice.  I have measured out the band for 1 inch pleats.  I like the size, but the tale will be attaching these to the bodice. 
Next up will be the back lacing holes.  Didn't count but should be 30-40 button holes to sew.  Have a strong red button threads, which I like to use.  Finding button thread in red suprised me, but it's perfect.  I did the Linen dresses button holes in this tread, and it works.  But that was a heavier material then this so I will experiment on scrape first.
Off to do more hand sewing. 

The sleeve material looks black here, but is actually a deep plum color.

Now I am debating the size of the pleats.  Do I do 1 inch or 1/2 inch Cartridge pleats.  I have 290 inches of material to pleat down to my waist size of 42 inches.  Have made a test piece from scrap doing a 1 inch pleat.  Found that the 290 would condense to at 18 inch waist.  So I added a lining in the top inch of red linen.  It now pleats to a 27 inche waist.  Still now enough.  Went to a an 1/2 inch pleat.  This pleats to a 32 inch waist.  The 1/2 look delicate.  The dress picture looks more like the 1 inch pleats to me.  I'm counting the number per inch, guestimation.  I will have to spread out the pleats on the band to make this work. 

The light goes on at JoAnn's

Went to Joann Saturday.  I Have this idea of doing the Gown in the Red Taffeta.  The sleeves in the portrait are of a dark, wine color.  Look like a heavy material, not a silk  So decided to go look for a dark cranberry velvet.  At Joann the cotton velveteen is a light cranberry at 15 a yard.  The premium vetvet was darker and richer, but 26 a yard.  I brought both up to the cutting counter, still undecided.  The Red Taffeta was not contrasting well with the cotton velveteen, and did not really want to spend 50 on 2 yard of premium.  Though I had a 50% off coupon.  That is when the light bulb went off in my head.  I Have 20 yards of dark, very dark premium velvet in the closet.  Dummy.  It is like a dark brown/plum color.  I had bought it at a going out of business sale in Boston 10 yrs ago easily. I got it for 5 a yard. So this morning I went down to the sewing room and pulled it out.  It is Perfect.  Actually matches the color of the sleeves in the portrait.  That settled it.  I am doing the gown in the Bronzino portrait of "Lucrezia Panciatrichi" actually as painted. 
The gown bottom looks to be fuller then the RC pattern I followed for the Linen dress.  The bottom appears to be Cartridge Pleats.  So I think the Taffeta is a good material for those pleats. 
I am going with a back lacing on this gown.  I have looked a numerous portraits from the period.  One think I have notice is that the larger sleeves from early periods, and theses sleeves, you do NOT see any of the Chemise pulled thru at the shoulders.  Most of the sleeves that are attached with lacing, straps etc, the under chemise is evident at the shoulders.  Or the Portraits clearly show spaces around the shoulder edge.  This has made my decision to do the center back lacing.  Now the ruched sleeve top will match the portrait.  I will still have the v-back, but this will be sewed together.  I am actually thinking of making these ruched top even fuller then the RC pattern I followed.  Fuller = better.  The gather threads are another problem.  I think I will do them this time of double button hole tread.  There is a lot of pressure on these gather lines. 

update 12/23/2011

Build the support structured into the rached sleeves.  They are simple straps from the top to bottom and the gather lines are stitched tho them.  Center at 7 inches long, two sides at 4 inches, and a back one, under the sleeves at two inches.  Created the stability needed.  The sleeve works.  But I think the material is too heavy, or not stiff enough.  There is no Poof, lots of gather.  But they still sag a bit.  SOOOOOOOOOO.
Changing fabric.  The brocade may work, but I have 8 yards of Red Taffeta.  This material is more correct to the portrait.  So have to decide what to do. 

Also have to decide on the back of the dress.  The Linen under dress has back sides lacing.  This makes sewing in the sleeves impossible.  Now the Linen dress gathered sleeves are done as seperate, and will be tied in at shoulders.  I am now considering doing a back center lacing for the overdress, then the sleeves can be sewn directly into the gown.  Hummmmmmmmmm.

Update 12/20/11

Well I can see I'm not going to be a daily blogger. 

Project 1. Italian Ren dress.  Have been working on the sleeves for the Italian Ren dress.  The Runched or gathered Sleeves on theis what I'm trying to do.  These are large gathered tops to the sleeves.  Doing them in the same Heavy Cream Linen as the Kirtle, and the under sleeves are of a dark gold silk type material.  This is presenting several problems.  The pattern I'm using as a guide is from Reconstruting History.  This gives me the basic shape, but not how to make it happen.  I have gathered the top of the sleeve onto the undersleeve.  I have gathered the bottom onto a small band, the size of the arms.  There are two gather lines inbetween to give the runch look.  But the sleeve sages down, after the gather lines are tightened.  I think I will have to place small vertical bands extending from the top to the bottom band, and anchor the inbetween gathers to these.  Plan to try this in the morning.  I think one of the problems is that the material is heavy, or heavier then the undersleeve.  But when I work on the actual dress, the cream linen is a dress rehersal, the Brocade will be just as heavy.  So in short the top of these sleeves will need a support structure to come out looking like the portrait.
Project two - linen Coif  Getting near the end of the second part of the embroidery.  The small shading stitches.  Had gone on line to Reconstructing History to order the paillettes for the cap.  Problem, I was only able to get one package of size 14.  For some reason the sizes and size numbers are mixed up on there web site.  Also most of them are Sold out.  I am hoping they will get more in.  I went on line to try and buy some from other sources, with NO LUCK.  Either there were to large - 20 mm or .78 inches, or had top holes, not center holes.  The only site that may have them was in Australia, and to order from them, mail an order sheet.  Didn't sound very good.  Hoping that RH shows up at Birka, and I can get some from them there. 

Day 1

I am new to this Blogger thing.  I have started it so that I can track the progress of various projects I am working on.  Having recently retired I can now spend more time working on the things I love doing.  Current Projects
1)  15th century embroidered Coif.  This is a work in progress.  Almost complete after close to two years of work. 
2)  Italian Renaissance Dress.  Have completed the under Kirtle.  Now to work with the Brocade.
3)  Elizabethan Slip.  Have completed one, Need to do the other slip, then applicade them to something. 

Now how do you post pictures on this blog??