Monday, August 13, 2018

Elizabethan gloves

Elizabethan I(E1) was known to have very long fingers.  She inherited them from her mother Anne Boleyn.  As a result, most wealthy people of this period are painted holding gloves which show very long fingers to emulate their Queen.  These are not practical gloves, but indicate the required look of conspicuous consumption.
I wanted to make my gloves following the style of glove that belonged to E1 in the V&A book.  But at the same time I wished to match the embroidery to use with a Jacket and Coif I am making instead of using the blackwork pattern extracted from the gloves.  Also the gloves in the V&A are made of linen.  This is unusual as linen gloves are not strong, and mostly used as an inner glove when wearing leather gloves.  But this pair is beautifully embroidered, and show repairs made to them, so may have been more of a summer pair of gloves worn often by E1.  I decided to make my gloves from white leather.  They will be stronger.
First was figuring out the cuff embroidery.  The pattern I used from the Coif, the design was too large for the cuff.  It took several drafts to reduce pattern to a size I felt looked proportionate.  I started stitching the pattern, but the scale to the linen was off.  I had to go to a very fine linen (40ct New Castle linen).  I also need to reduce the size of the paillettes.  Ended up using #17.  These are so fine that to thread the center hole to stitch them down I need to use a very long tiny beading needle.
I finished the cuff off with silver thread using the Elizabethan Ladder braid stitch.  The corners have pearls.  This took several months to complete.  
I debated over a button hole edging or straight stem stitch edging to the silver thread.  Preferred the Stem stitch,  so Yup, I reversed stitch the button hole (pulled it out) and added the stem stitch.  I earned my next level of Crazy Embroiderer.  

The white leather I am using is a heavier suede, split pig hide, then used in my previous gloves.  When stitching on leather you must be careful.  Once you make a hole with the needle, you own the hole.  I was also using the V gusset, or fork, between the fingers, with Querks.  I did not photo these.  The V fork restricts the movement of the fingers to pull apart.  The small querk (small triangle gusset) at the base of the finger allows this movement.  The front of the V goes down the front of the hand adding to the long finger look.

Sewed the cuff, which had already been attached to a lining with buckram. To do this you have to whip stitch the cuff (front and back) to the leather.  
Once the cuff is attached you can then finish off the fingers.  I had attached the thumb earlier.

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